应朋友求写个Glacier National Park攻略,内容基本基于2021年情况,限于整理攻略的时间点,2022年的变化(例如门票,限流,shuttle等)还没有最终确定,但应该变化不大。本攻略仅供参考,信息请以国家公园官网为准!
求米!
顺便求个助:去过Lake Clark,Kobuk Valley,Gates of the Arctic这三个国家公园的朋友求经验!
Going-to-the-Sun Road:景观公路,穿过Lake McDonald Valley,越过Continental Divide,横穿整个公园,自驾going to the sun road是不可错过的体验。路上有很多停车点,可以远眺山谷或是远观Logan Pass,可以根据自己喜好(或者参考停的车多少)来决定停哪个点,后面行程有我停的几个点供参考。全程(Apgar - St Mary),包含路边停车拍照观景,不包含hiking,建议预留3-4小时。
Lake McDonald: 虽然也是个漂亮的湖,但是跟其它景点比还是差了点意思,而且几年前山火还烧掉了一片树林多少有点有碍观瞻;时间紧张的话可以跳过,在车上看看湖就好。这里有Lodge,Cafe,还有Boat Tour,Shuttle有时也会在这里换乘(大型公交车上不了山路)。
Avalanche Lake Trail:热门步道,从GTTS Road穿过山谷走到Avalanche Lake,全程约6 mile,Elevation不大,且因为靠近Lake McDonald区域停车难度比Logan Pass低好多,可以作为不错的备选方案。
Logan Pass:Going to the sun road和Continental Divide交叉点,也是公路的最高点。这里有Logan Pass Visitor Center和若干trail的起点,其中最热门的是Hidden Lake Trail和Highline Trail。停车是Logan Pass的大难题,山顶停车场车位有限,早上很快就会停满,而这里又是来Glacier NP必去的地方,于是……就卷起来了。去之前可以刷刷TripAdvisor和AllTrails评论区看一下几点停满。如果内卷失败开到山顶发现没有车位了,可以考虑开到附近的pull out停车再沿公路走到Logan Pass,距离0.5-2mile不等。因为大家普遍会在这里hiking,早晨蹲点等车位并不是个特别有效的策略。更保险的方式是坐公园的shuttle,也可以避免没睡醒的时候开山路,详见交通部分。Logan Pass以下两个Trail为风景最好,最多人走的,周围还有一些小Trail可自行选择。这里也有Visitor Center可以买纪念品。
Hidden Lake Trail:分两段,前半段到Hidden Lake Overlook共1.4mile,可以俯瞰Hidden Lake,后半段1.2mile可以下到湖边。前半段Hidden Lake Trail可以说是“性价比”最高的Trail了,能在短短1.4 mile看到Glacier NP的美景,所以也是公园最热门的Trail之一。后半段走不走可以根据自身体力和时间安排决定。但是似乎这条trail很容易因为熊的活动而关闭……我自己就碰上了,据ranger说有只公熊一直在试图咬死一只母熊的孩子好跟她交配于是特别的aggresive……完全没进去,看游记和攻略时也见过不少人没有进去的例子。这种情况下就去马路对面的Highline Trail吧。
Highline Trail:连接Logan Pass和Granite Park Chalet,总长约15mile,基本都在沿着GTTS Road的山腰上。对多数人来说没有必要走全程,建议走一小段欣赏Lake McDonald Valley然后原路返回,具体根据自己的体力和时间决定。因为地形原因这里似乎不太常有Bear Jam。想要走全程的同学请去预定Granite Park Chalet,用一天时间走到这里,住一晚,第二天一早走到The Loop Shuttle Stop(就是地图上那个大发卡弯),上shuttle回去。当然也可以分组hiking,互相drop-off/pick-up。
Going to the sun point:东侧St Mary区域的景点集中区,有一个较大的停车场,人少,周围有几个沿着St Mary Lake的trail。但是最近几年发生过火灾,这附近有很多死树,影响了景观,时间紧跳过也可以。Sun Point Nature Trail从停车场出发走到湖边,很短,15分钟就能完成。
St Mary Falls:从going to the sun point出发6mile,或从西边一点路边的小停车场出发3mile,看湖和瀑布。
Siyeh Pass Trail:going to the sun point西边一点,10 mile一路走到Logan Pass
坐船(Boat Tour)
主要的Boat Tour集中在四个湖:Lake McDonald,St Mary Lake,Many Glacier区域,Two Medicine Lake,都在这里买票 https://www.glacierparkboats.com/ ,可以reschedule,建议车票旅店定下来之后尽早也把船票买了。没买到票也可以发船前去stand by赌一下。
Boat Tour基本上都是带你到湖上转一圈,同时有一些讲解。只从观景的角度来说和在湖畔没有特别大的区别,主要听听ranger给你讲讲小故事(比如湖边有个小房子可以给artist免费住几天帮助寻找创作灵感),根据时间安排可以跳过;Many Glacier的船可以帮助缩短Grinnell Glacier Trail距离,推荐买上 - 作为交通手段而不是观光。
Bus Tour
完全不用自己开车游览GTTS Road的选项(不过除非真的腿脚不便还是建议至少走走Logan Pass的两个trail) https://www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisit/bus-tours.htm ,可以从东西两侧上车,有数条不同线路,可以到Logan Pass折返也可以直接到Many Glacier区一日游。不过仅限于坐车观光,有机会路边停车拍照,但是没有机会Hiking。要坐的话推荐Xanterra运营的小红车,视野更好,车子本身也漂亮(游客中心甚至有这个小红车的模型卖)。同样数量有限,推荐早定。
住宿
公园西入口:West Glacier至Kalispell沿途镇上均有住宿,价格基本是离公园越近就越贵。两地之间车程约45分钟(从FCA过去30分钟)。可以根据自己去Logan Pass的计划选择位置(坐shuttle可以住远点,想去抢车位则越近越好)。
公园东入口:东入口St Mary有少量住宿;向南Glacier East Village,到东入口约1小时15分钟;Browning,到东入口和Many Glacier的码头均约1小时。
Many Glacier入口:基本只能在Babb附近找到一些破旅馆,以及一些房车类的airbnb。
园内:Many Glacier区域有几个旅馆,Lake McDonald旁边有个Lodge,东门附近有Rising Sun Motor Inn,具体见这里 https://www.glaciernationalparklodges.com/ 和这里 https://www.glacierparkcollection.com/ 这里强烈推荐Many Glacier区域的几个旅馆,尤其是Many Glacier Hotel,走trail坐船方便且风景优美。可以在手机上打开预定网页,每天有空刷两下,提前几个月开始总是能定到的。
Camping和RV park没有仔细研究过不乱说,同样难定就是了。
吃饭不多说了,住宿提到的几个镇都有吃的,园内主要是Lake McDonald Lodge湖边有个cafe,就在坐boat tour的地方。
行程例子
A. 我在2021劳动节的实际行程,比较详细,含事先准备
三个区域都走到了,going to the sun走了1.5个来回,应该是比较适合多数人的行程。
第二天可以根据情况选择many glacier别的trail;第三天可以跳过Two Medicine根据爱好选择别的活动(比如再走一个别的trail),或者提前回家。
Day -∞
Start looking for in-park lodging.
Buy boat tour ticket.
Day -X: shuttle ticket release date
Buy shuttle ticket on recreation.gov
Day -60: road entry ticket release date
Buy GTTS self-driving entry ticket.
Adjust boat tour ticket based on above two ticket dates.
Day -1: 9/2, Thursday
Second chance for buying GTTS self-drive entry ticket and shuttle ticket.
Day 0: 9/3, Friday
Flight to FCA
Rent Car
Drive: FCA - Kalispell (15 min)
Dinner: Kalispell
Grocery shopping (Water, food for next two days' lunch, bear spray)
Drive: Kalispell - West Glacier (45 min)
Stay: Great Northern Resort
Day 1: 9/4, Saturday
Get up 7:00 am
Breakfast at hotel / snacks
Drive: West Glacier - Apgar Visitor Center (10 min), arrive by 7:50 am.
Shuttle: Apgar Visitor Center - Logan Pass (1h)
Hike: Hidden Lake Overlook (1.5 h)
Hike: Part Highline Trail (hike 30~45 min then turn back), back by noon
Lunch: packed lunch
Shuttle: Logan Pass - Apgar Visitor Center (1h), back by 2 pm
Drive: Visitor Center - St Mary (ref: http://enjoyyourparks.com/GoingToTheSunRoadPullouts.html)
- Logan Pass Lookout 48.732698, -113.743537 (Very good angle to watch Logan Pass)
- Weeping Wall (pass by is enough)
- Big Bend (a pullout)
- Jackson Glacier Overlook (stop at pullout, use binocular, see glacier)
- Sun Point (short hike, look at St Mary Lake)
- Wild Goose Island Lookout ("Shining" movie start scene was shot here)
Drive: St Mary - Many Glacier (35 min, with part of unpaved road)
Dinner: Ptarmigan (Take-Out)
Stay: Many Glacier Hotel (1147 Rte 3, Browning, MT 59417, +13032657010)
理想的情况当然是自己开车上Logan Pass停下,可以省下近两个小时的时间,但是找不到车位的话会很麻烦。考虑到我们的时间点是游客较多的劳动节,选择了稳妥的方案。(多看一遍going to the sun road也不亏啊,再说shuttle上也可以睡觉嘛)
Day 2: 9/5, Sunday
Get up 7:30 am.
Breakfast: Ptarmigan (Take-Out)
Boat Tour Josephine Lake (9:00 am)
Grinnell Glacier Trail (7.7 mile, ~6h), back by 5:00 pm
Boat Tour back
Drive: Many Glacier - Browning (1h)
Dinner: Browning
Stay: Glacier Peaks Hotel
住到Browning一方面因为需要分别刷两天的Many Glacier Hotel麻烦,另一方面是因为穷
Day 3: 9/6, Monday
Breakfast: Browning
Drive: Browning - Two Medicine Lake
Kayaking / Hiking, leave before noon
Drive: Two Medicine Lake - Lake McDonald Lodge (2h) (Road to the Sun / via Route 2, depending on time)
Lunch: St Mary Village / McDonald Lodge (depending on time)
Boat Tour (3 pm - 4 pm)
Drive: Lake McDonald Lodge - FCA (50 min)
Dinner: Kalispell or back home
Flight back
实际因为当天风太大没能划船,因此剩下的时间比较多,就反向又开了一遍GTTS;如果能划船的话可以走南方的2号公路快一点回到Lake McDonald Lodge。
关于来回飞机:我在西海岸比较近;东海岸的小伙伴请自行计算飞行时间微调行程。
B. 三天都住Many Glacier的方案(简略)
Day 0
Drive to Many Glacier
Check in Many Glacier Hotel
Day 1
Grinnell Glacier Trail / Iceberg Lake Trail
Day 2 (A)
Shuttle/Drive to St Mary Visitor Center
Validate shuttle ticket
Shuttle to Logan Pass
Hike Hidden Lake / Highline Trail
Shuttle to Lake McDonald
Boat Tour
Shuttle back to Logan Pass, transfer, then to St Mary.
Shuttle/Drive to Many Glacier.
Day 2 (B)
Shuttle/Drive to St Mary Visitor Center
Validate shuttle ticket
Shuttle to Going to the sun point
Hike Siyeh Pass Trail to Logan Pass
Shuttle back to St Mary.
Shuttle/Drive to Many Glacier.
Day 3 (A/B)
Check out hotel
Drive to Two Medicine Lake
Kayak / Boat / Hike
Go back home.
EX. 走完Highline全程的安排,合计需要1.5天,可以加到其它行程
Day -∞
Reserve Granite Park Chalet https://www.graniteparkchalet.com/ (wtf...already fully booked 1/17...)
Day K
Drive to St Mary / Apgar Visitor Center [unsure: overnight parking?]
Validate shuttle ticket (for both days)
Shuttle to Logan Pass
Hike Highline Trail to Granite Park Chalet
Stat at Granite Park Chalet
Day K+1
Hike to "The Loop"
Shuttle back to visitor center (if St Mary, need transfer at Logan Pass).
Go back home.
以上。虽然麻烦但是绝对是值得一去的国家公园,在我去过的40+公园里我也愿意把它排进前三!希望这篇攻略能帮助更多人去领略Glacier National Park的美。